SUSTAINED is your most sustainable line, which focuses on recycling and zero waste. What inspired you to launch it?
Since the brand’s origins, sustainability has always been present in the manufacturing of our pieces, but it was impossible to make collections that were 100% sustainable: we had to buy materials to make the pieces. I have always had in mind the idea of experimenting with the way to make jewelry without buying new materials and reusing the remains of the workshop. When I found a supplier who recycled the metal scraps from the workshop that came from the production of the main collections, it became clear to me and I began to shape the idea for this new line, SUSTAINED.
How was your passion for vintage born?
Antique jewelry has always attracted my attention for several reasons: the limited number of pieces, their sentimental value, and their quality. I don’t come from a family with a special interest in jewelry, but since I was young it has been the most natural way to express myself.
Where do the recycled materials in the collection come from?
Any metals come from the leftovers that we generate in the workshop with the production of the main collections. The rest of the materials come from vintage pieces that I have been collecting over the years. Actually, in these first pieces that we have designed the origin of almost all materials are from antique Lucite chains. We took advantage of every individual link of these chains and transformed them into ear cuffs.
From the collecting of these antique pieces to the crafting of each one of them in the workshop, how is the production process in this line?
When we work on the main collections, silver waste is generated: defective pieces, metal dust from sanding and polishing… we deliver all this material to a company in Madrid dedicated to the recycling of precious metals and they return the clean metal to us for reuse. We keep track of the weights of this metal and make sure that SUSTAINED’s production is made with this recycled silver. Old pieces are undone and used separately, and then we take them back to the jewelry category with the metalwork.
What challenges do you face when creating your pieces from these existing materials?
The challenge with SUSTAINED is creating designs that can be replicated many times using these old materials of which there are limited quantities. Many of the pieces, due to the old origin of the materials, are limited editions, so our plan is to develop new pieces with ‘new’ old materials to replace those designs that are sold out.
What is the appeal of the plastics you recycle, as Lucite, apart from sustainability?
The quality and finish of Lucite are incredible. We also have some Bakelite pieces and this material is even better. Mixed with the metallic finishes we are developing, they elevate the pieces a lot and the plastic is no longer seen as secondary material.
How is luxury in jewelry compatible with recycling?
It is totally compatible, and not only when it comes to jewelry. The concept of luxury has changed. Luxury is quality, good craftsmanship, design, sustainable production, unique pieces, and direct contact with the designer.
This is your first unisex collection, how do you approach the male market? Is it being well received?
When we launched the first pieces in March of this year, and even knowing that the pieces had a very neutral character, we didn’t have any male models in the campaign images. Despite that, we got a lot of male clients and stylists. It was a success that we did not expect. In this launching of new pieces, we did have a boy for the campaign to reinforce this market.
The designs can be worn by themselves or combined with one another. Do you have a favorite mix?
The development of SUSTAINED was done with the concept of layering always in mind. The mix of Lucite pieces with all-metal pieces works amazing. My favorite combination is the ‘Noir link medium’ with the ‘link small’ and the ‘magma link extra small’.
In SUSTAINED we find some designs from other Beatriz Palacios collections, such as the ‘Infinity ring’. What are the main differences between previous Beatriz Palacios collections and Sustained?
The infinity ring is one of our reference pieces and I really wanted to make a version of this model. Making it with a thicker thread and recycled metal was perfect for the SUSTAINED line. The main difference between the mainline and SUSTAINED is in the design. With SUSTAINED I am looking for more utilitarian pieces but without leaving sophistication aside.