Season: Spring/Summer 2022
Editor’s Notes: All aboard the tilt-a-whirl that is Loewe’s SS22 collection.
Described as “neurotic, psychedelic, completely hysterical,” the collection is indeed kooky — in the chicest way possible.
Otherwise body-hugging dresses are built with metal wiring that juts out at odd angles, distorting the figure. (Pontormo, known for his off-kilter perspective, would be pleased.) Trench coats are worn backwards, fashioned into off-the-shoulder gowns that dangle with two vestigial sleeves. Turtle-neck sheaths feature clear resin “breastplates,” peek-a-boo moments that recall the look of oil spilt on sheer fabric.
Some particularly show-stopping shoes boast hyper-realistic heels sculpted to resemble bottles of nail polish, cracked eggs, and bars of soap — ready-mades for the feet. Loewe’s
Other mind-bending moments: sequined frocks featured ruffled leg holes, a novel departure from the traditional side slit; curved metal bodices warp the shape of the waist like a fun house mirror; one model walked the runway clutching what appeared to be a wax foot.
Not for the faint of heart, Loewe’s latest show was experimental, to say the least. But it also contained some easily wearable pieces, like puffy windbreakers with logo-clasp buckles at the waistband and slinky, knit dresses.
Would Anderson’s collection make Pontormo proud? IMHO, it’s an emphatic yes.